Cutomers gathered at Misunderstood Heron, photographed by Nathalie Marquez Courtney.
Behind the hatch: the highs and lows of running a food truck in Ireland
Coffee trucks, culinary caravans and pop-up purveyors with offerings that range from gourmet set meals to quick comforting classics have become increasingly popular across the country. In many cases, food trucks are celebrated for their engaging takes on diverse cuisines and for the community spirit that can grow around them, but what are the realities of operating like this in Ireland? James Gabriel Martin of Leviathan spoke to independent business owners to learn more about it.
Jeremy Cuevas has been working in the world of food from a young age. By sixteen, he was scrubbing pots and clearing plates as a kitchen porter in La Cocina Cuevas, his grandmother’s restaurant in his hometown of Lodi, California.
In later years, he travelled to London, making his way through Michelin-starred kitchens and training under esteemed chefs like Adam Byatt. A chance meeting and a whirlwind romance with Irish woman Laura Duffy eventually brought the California-native to our shores, and today, tucked away on the grounds of an unsuspecting farmyard just beyond Naul village in north county Dublin stands a sleek container proudly bearing the same name as the place where it all began – La Cocina Cuevas.
The location is well thought out and professional while remaining streamlined and to the point. A series of wooden booths across from the busy kitchen provides seating and shelter for customers dining in, with a menu of California-Mexican dishes that includes Suadero tacos of slow-cooked beef, and crispy potatoes topped with grilled onions, melted cheese, salsa, sour cream and guacamole. Brunch is served early on Sundays, with offerings such as breakfast burritos, peach pancakes and Cubano sandwiches. The space has evolved over time, with the business beginning from a simple van setup in 2018.
According to Cuevas, running a food truck can be tough, but extremely rewarding. “Our favourite thing about what we do is getting that instant gratification when people smile after that first bite of food. What a feeling! Our goal is to leave everyone feeling satisfied and happy. But especially to create good food memories with them. We want it to resonate and make them think of the meal days later,” Cuevas said.
In terms of street food culture and food trucks, Ireland is definitely behind the pace of other countries. It was only really during the era of COVID restrictions that extra emphasis was finally placed on outdoor dining spaces and conversations around mobile catering became talked about in the mainstream. In such a new landscape, there is a lot for establishing businesses to navigate. “When we first started, we couldn’t get anyone to actually deliver goods to us. We had to buy a fridge van and go around to collect all of our raw produce ourselves,” he said.
“Our biggest hurdle has always been, until recently, finding enough local staff. For years, we also had to drive all the way to Dublin town and collect our staff from the city centre. There’s also the fluctuating cost of goods, for example, the price of beef is constantly going up, and people are generally unaware, as the big supermarkets have buying power that we as a small business just don’t have. So, providing good value for money is a delicate balance, but something that we always strive for no matter what.”
As an owner and operator along with Duffy, Cuevas also said that it can be hard to strike a work-life balance, as hospitality requires a lot of unsociable hours. Having said all that, the support from customers drives what they do, and they are excited by the future.
Plans are in place to expand to different locations, and the team has also begun reviving the farm around them. Calling it Fingers Crossed Farm, Cuevas is working closely with friends Chris Maguire (head chef at Spitalfields, Dublin) and General Manager Kai Dunn. They have a small apiary in place as well as two new polytunnels going up this summer to begin growing their own produce to supply themselves.
In Clonmel, Fetch Coffee has been in operation since 2022, run by husband and wife team Rachel Purcell and Kevin McKeigue. The couple had always talked about opening a coffee shop one day, but as mentioned, it took the shake-up of COVID and the chaos surrounding that time for them to reassess where they were and what they wanted for their future.
They moved from Dublin back to Purcell’s hometown in Co.Tipperary mid-pandemic while working remotely, and what was supposed to be a short stay became permanent. The breathing space it afforded them allowed them to revisit the idea of a coffee space, and they went the direction of a small container unit. “Our favourite part of the job is definitely the people. Getting to know our regulars, being part of their daily routine, seeing new faces become familiar ones. It makes everything we do feel worthwhile. There’s a really good feeling in creating something that brings people together,” Purcell said.
As well as serving up coffee from roasters Never A Days Trouble, Fetch works with a chef to provide popular staples like fresh sausage rolls and jambons, granola pots and a range of sweet treats. The menu is kept simple with an emphasis on doing a smaller offering really well. “Running your own business, especially in hospitality, is full-on. You never really switch off. There’s always something to think about, whether it’s prep, cleaning, ordering, admin, or just planning ahead. Even outside our opening hours, there’s a lot happening behind the scenes.”
Rising costs across the board are another ongoing challenge. Everything has gone up, from ingredients to packaging and utilities. I asked Rachel what she thinks would benefit entrepreneurs going forward. “Rent and commercial rates can be huge barriers for people thinking of starting something new. We’d love to see more initiatives that encourage independent food businesses to open in rural areas. Not just financial support, but also access to resources, mentorship and advice. A thriving town benefits everyone; the more local businesses we can support, the better the overall community becomes,” she said.
Food trucks in Ireland have proven to be popular ventures for husband-and-wife teams. Dan Howell and Catherine Keane of Man Street Kitchen have been in operation since 2018, and their approach to their business is one of flexibility and creativity. The mobile aspect of their setup means that they can cater to different needs. This adaptability was even kept in mind when the truck was being designed, with extra-large hatches being built in for ventilation and a back that opens fully to make the space more workable. Their cooking is influenced by Asian, Middle Eastern and American flavours as well as southern barbecue style. They are a popular regular at Saint Anne’s Market in Clontarf almost every Saturday throughout the year.
“The core of the business has stayed the same, however, being a mobile food truck has allowed us to adapt through what is thrown at us. Two years ago, we would have primarily relied on private and corporate events, but now, because of the current climate, we are focusing more on our Friday Night pop-up that we do at Suttonian’s Rugby Club in Sutton and the Saturday market,” Man Street Kitchen said.
Another aspect of the work that the team is facing is the physical toll hospitality takes on the body. “With a food truck, you are constantly loading and unloading, especially if you are trading at different locations and if you twist your back the wrong way, you’re in trouble! It physically gets hard and you have to invest time and money to keep your body healthy. During a busy summer we are in with a physio and or osteopath always getting something looked at,” they said.
Barry Stephens is no stranger to the hard work involved with running an independent food business. He owned and operated the much-loved 147 Deli in Dublin city before making the switch to a food truck called Just Chubbys in 2022. Located in a lot in a carpark just off the Clontarf Road, it was an instant hit, serving delicious dishes like hot wings, spice-dusted corn ribs, fully loaded fries and beef and Guinness birria tacos.
“It was insanely busy from the start. There was never a dull moment, and the learning curve has been sharp. The demand of serving 350 people in a very short space of time out of one truck – it’s been stressful at times, but the people are amazing. We’ve a great following. We had people waiting an hour and a half at times when we were at capacity, which I felt bad about, but they were happy to do so,” Stephens said.
One of the benefits of a food truck may be lower overheads, but busy periods can cause issues when operating in such a small space. Because of this, and because of the demand, Stephens and his team have been able to evolve once again, and last month announced that the truck was closing to make way for a brick-and-mortar setup at the same location. Planned for a June opening, the menu will include already-established favourites while adding a host of exciting specials that the chefs are passionate about.
When asked about the challenges faced by food trucks and small businesses, Stephens said that more support from the powers that be would be helpful. “There’s a lot of red tape here. We should encourage people to go out and try things and make spaces available for them. That’s how you create a culture. I’d like to see a better understanding of street food culture as a whole, too. We can’t all afford million-euro fit-outs. We don’t all have the option, rent is crazy. If we don’t do that, all we will have around us are the same old boring, soulless chains.”
Food trucks have also been offering dining experiences at interesting locations, for example, Misunderstood Heron, which is located on the outskirts of Leenane, Connemara by Killary Harbour. But such a scenic location comes with its own issues, however.
It’s a popular spot drawing countless visitors every year and Misunderstood Heron, operated by husband and wife team Reinaldo Seco and Kim Young, has opened seasonally every year since 2017. Serving up cuisine inspired by the couple’s travels across the globe, with extra love given to Reinaldo’s home country of Chile, the menu has also always featured fresh Irish products.
Located right on the water with views of the surrounding area, visitors could enjoy bowls of fresh mussels pulled from the fjord itself, beef shin empanadas and spiced lamb samosas with meat sourced from a farm just a few fields over.
Four weeks ago, following what they described as a complaint filed by a member of the public, Galway County Council served the food truck with a compulsory closure notice, citing a lack of planning permission as the reason. A social media post breaking the news caused an immediate stir online, with many loyal customers, chefs and celebrities commenting to express their disappointment. For Kim and Reinaldo, this was a significant blow that meant the immediate cessation of a family business that they had built over the years.
The council, for their part, reiterated their position and said that unfortunately, they had no choice in stepping in on the matter. They said that no planning was in place and therefore, their hands were tied. I reached out to Galway County Council directly for more information and the following statement was shared. “This specific structure and operation does not have the benefit of planning permission required, nor is it exempt from this requirement and, as such, it is deemed unlawful by Galway County Council as Planning Authority for the area.”
I also spoke to Young, who told me that Misunderstood Heron is hopeful in ongoing efforts to work with the council while also expressing their experience through the situation. “It’s heartbreaking. It feels like I’ve just had my entire life taken from me. I’ve had to tell eight people that their jobs are now gone. We were bowled over though by seeing the support from customers, and to recognise just how big of an impact we have had on people. We didn’t realise that. We felt so alone when this all happened, but to see everybody really taking it to heart meant so much to us. It made us feel seen during a dark time. We owe the public a massive thank you.”
The interest in Misunderstood Heron’s food is well-documented. Many of the headlines surrounding the closure have led with the fact that in 2019 it was named by Lonely Planet as one of top ten coolest food trucks in the world, also being included in a book called Around the World in 80 Food Trucks. I was the journalist who wrote the original entry for that publication, so revisiting the evolving story has been interesting.
There is some positive news for the short term at least, as it was announced just last week that the team at Misunderstood Heron has been offered a spot at P.Dans Pub in Kiladoon, County Mayo, alongside BigStyle Atlantic Lodge, where they will be serving throughout July and August. “It does afford us the opportunity to try some new things and some new dishes, so that aspect of things is exciting,” said Young. “I think overall, though, this is our food. Our food is our culture. We need to promote this across Ireland.”
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